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GOTS organic cotton — deep dive

Global Organic Textile Standard for cotton, linen, hemp — 95%+ organic-fibre threshold, chain-of-custody from farm to garment, banned-chemistry list.

What GOTS actually certifies

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certifies textiles containing at least 95% organic natural fibres (cotton, linen, hemp, wool) from farm to finished garment. Coverage: farming (no synthetic pesticides, no GMO), spinning, weaving/knitting, dyeing (banned-chemistry list — no APs, no chlorine bleach, no formaldehyde, no heavy-metal dyes), accessories (buttons, zippers must meet GOTS rules), social criteria (no forced labour, no child labour, freedom of association, fair pay).

What GOTS does NOT cover

GOTS does not certify polyester, recycled content (use GRS instead), or 100% synthetic blends below 70% organic. It does not certify the print application — the ink must independently meet GOTS-approved chemistry list (often plastisol-free water-based pigment inks). Print position, finishing oils, finishing washes must be GOTS-compliant or the certification is voided. End-product label must include the GOTS license number — generic 'organic cotton' claims without GOTS number are unverifiable.

Pricing — Poland

PLN pricing excluding VAT. Standard lead 5-8 working days, rush production +35% delivers in 3-5 days. Production hub serves the whole country. VAT 23%, e-invoices via KSeF (Krajowy System e-Faktur). Warszawa hub.

FAQ

Certification cost?

License fee 200-1000 EUR + audit fee 1500-4000 EUR per facility / year. Transaction Certificate (TC) per shipment 30-80 EUR.

Print compatibility?

Water-based pigment, discharge, soy-based DTG inks GOTS-approved. Plastisol screen inks generally not — though some plastisol formulations exist.

Mass-balance allowed?

No — GOTS requires physical segregation across the chain. Mass balance not permitted, unlike some recycled-content schemes.

Recycled cotton?

Recycled cotton falls under GRS (Global Recycled Standard), not GOTS. Hybrid GOTS + GRS blends increasingly common.

Compatible with EU Ecolabel?

Yes — GOTS-certified textiles meet most EU Ecolabel criteria for textiles. Some additional EU Ecolabel chemical / durability tests required.

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